Stoddard's Fine Food & Ale, Boston, MA

Stoddard's Fine Food & Ale, 48 Temple Place, is situated in downtown Boston close to both Downtown Crossing (red and orange lines) and Park Street (green line) subway ('T') stations.
Stoddard's website reveals that the building is the former quarters of Stoddard's Cutlery and home to original tenant Chandler's Corset Store. The 1868 Greek Revival style building was one of the few to survive the Great Fire of 1872.

On Tuesday, 3 October, 2017, it was a pleasure to return to an establishment, fondly remembered from a November, 2015, lunchtime visit.

Walking past the individual fonts, spaced along the long carved wooden bar, the bartender realised that I was interested in a beer from one of the five handpumps at the far end. I didn't need to consult the beer menu as the cask Mayflower IPA, from Plymouth, MA, was to my taste and apparently not cooled.

Having arrived after 2.45pm, the lunchtime customers had mainly left so there was plenty of seating available.

While I enjoyed my (16oz / $6.25) pint, I took a look at the beer menu to see what beers were available from the fonts for keg beers, although with a 4.15pm bus to Portland, Maine, to catch at South Station Bus Terminal, some distance away, my beer appreciation opportunity at Stoddard's was limited to the pint in my hand.
It was interesting to note that draughts were divided into four sections: Germans & Lagers; Stouts & Porters; Ales and Belgians. The British Isles were represented by Coniston Brewing Co Bluebird Bitter and O'Hara's Irish Stout. Two beers in the Belgians section were from Allagash Brewing Co of Portland, Maine - White and Tripel.

Before leaving Stoddard's, I had a quick word with Tavish, the affable bartender, who agreed to pose with a copy of Ullage, the West Berkshire CAMRA magazine, and to keep it for reference.

Open Tuesday - Sunday from 11.30am
Website with menus etc: www.stoddardsfoodandale.com

Bellingham, WA (part 2)

Railroad Avenue, Bellingham

Bellingham is the thirteenth largest city in the state of Washington with a population of over 85,000 (2015) according to Wikipedia.

The Bellingham Tap Trail ™ leaflet shows 11 breweries and 11 taphouses and pubs in the city.

Boundary Bay Brewing

Maureen at Boundary Bay brewery taproom

On a sunny Friday 30 September, Maureen, my long-suffering second cousin, kindly drove me around the city so that I could visit four breweries in one afternoon. Boundary Bay brewery & bistro was our first stop.

This independent brewery, located in a restored 1922 warehouse, has played a role in the community since 1995 and received Washington's Small Philanthropic Business of the Year award in 2014.

There was a chance to see some of the brewery vessels before ordering our drinks. 

Maureen was not drinking beer but I made up for her by ordering two 5oz glasses. The (left) Inside Passage Ale (Flagship IPA 7.5% ABV / 78 IBU) was pleasant but my favourite was (right) Cedar Dust IPA (6.5% ABV / 66 IBU) from the Galbraith Mountain Series, named after trails between Bellingham and Sudden Valley.

The taproom has plenty of interesting decorative features with a nautical theme.

Two cask ales are available served from handpumps at the rear of the bar.

Best Bitter ESB (5.4% ABV / 45 IBU) is another flagship Boundary Bay beer and the most traditional pale ale brewed there.

We passed repurposed Boundary Bay stainless steel kegs walking the fifty yards to the second brewery stop of the day.

Gruff Brewing

Open all day Friday - Sunday, situated at 104 E. Maple Street,  Gruff Brewing is a recent addition to the Bellingham brewery scene. 

At the bar, I gave Eric a copy of Ullage, the West Berkshire CAMRA magazine, and as the taproom was not busy he kindly gave me some beer samples to taste. The Pineapple IPA (5% ABV) is brewed with Mosaic hops and was very fruity. 

Pinball can be played at Gruff Brewing

Wish Rock Wit (4% ABV), the Bellingham Beer Week special herbed beer, brewed with blackberries, a collaboration with The Racket bar and pinball lounge, was also nice.

A schooner of Pale Wheat Ale (4.4% ABV, $4) tasted good in the extensive outside area at the back of the brewery, giving panoramic views of old industrial buildings and the bay beyond. The time left on the car parking ticket was running out so it was time to visit our third brewery.

Aslan Brewing Co

The sunny weather meant there were plenty of people on Aslan Brewing Co's outside terrace.

We found a place at one of the high tables inside with a view of the bar and the brewery further back, behind a glass partition.

There were plenty of beers, listed on a blackboard strip behind the bar, to choose from so a flight seemed like a good idea.

My order for lunch was sweet potato fries and fish taco. The service was friendly and efficient.

The chosen beer flight comprised Black Gold (Blackberry Kolsch brewed for Bellingham Beer Week, 4.4% ABV / 13 IBU), FIFA (French India Farmhouse Ale brewed for Bellingham United, 6.2% ABV / 55 IBU), Nectarine Farmer (Saison, 5.8% / 24 IBU), Festbier (5.1% ABV / 20 IBU) and Dawn Patrol (unfiltered Pacific Ale using Rye malt, 5.3% ABV, 18 IBU). 
FIFA and Dawn Patrol were my two favourites from the beer flight.

There is some variation in beer prices. Festbier is priced at $4 (9oz), $5 (16oz) and $6 (21oz). During Happy Hour (daily 2pm-5pm and 9pm-kitchen close) there is $1 off the two larger glass sizes (prices applicable in September 2016).

A framed photo records that, since the summer of 2012, 'The Aslan owners committed 8 months of sweat equity to the renovation of a historic industrial building into a brewery and restaurant. L to R: Boe Trosset, Pat Haynes, Frank Trosset & Jack Lamb.'

Before heading to our fourth brewery we made a detour to shop at Joe's Gardens in Happy Valley for some produce to go with the evening meal. 

Kulshan Brewing Co

A little way out from the centre of Bellingham, we visited the first site of Kulshan Brewing Co which is situated at 2238 James Street. The brewery was founded in 2012 by Bellingham native David Vitt.

The external sign's posts and the base supports for the bicycle racks are made from stainless steel beer kegs.

A sign by the bar lists the beers on tap. The Good Ol' Boy Pale caught my eye because of the similar name to Good Old Boy from West Berkshire Brewery, a beer that I drink regularly in the UK.

Although several other beers looked tempting, there was really only one choice for me!

We sat outside at a shaded table. The tasting notes for Good Ol' Boy Pale Ale (5.35% ABV / IBU 20) mention flavour as 'Light Biscuit/Bread, Citrus Tartness, Crisp Bitterness, Subtle Green Hop Character' and ingredients as Malt: 2-Row, Pale Wheat, Munich, Crystal. The hops are Apollo, Cascade, Willamette. This was my favourite beer of the day and a beer to look out for on my next visit to Washington.

Once again, I took the opportunity to get a photo of the friendly staff with a copy of Ullage, to prove how far it travels!

We called in at Rocket Donuts on the way home but they had sold out of donuts for the day!

Never mind! There was still a can of Bastard Kat IPA (6.66% ABV, IBU 70), brewed with Apollo, Cascade and Centennial hops, from the fridge at Elizabeth Station, for one more beer later in the evening. This is one of my favourite IPAs.

Bellingham (part 1) & La Conner, WA

Buses and trains from Vancouver to Bellingham depart from Pacific Central station.

If you travel from Vancouver to Bellingham by bus, note that it could be delayed at the border crossing in Blaine.

It is necessary to get off the bus with all luggage and foreigners must pay a $6 fee for the documentation to pass through U.S. Customs and Border Protection checks at a land crossing.

 

Bellingham 

Although my bus was late on Wednesday 28 September, 2016, I was lucky to be met at Cordata Station, Bellingham by my second cousin Maureen. She lives in Bellingham and taught theatre at Western Washington University until retiring.

Thirsty weather for Tim on the South Bay Trail

Maureen drove to nearby Fairhaven and we went for a walk on part of the South Bay Trail which connects Bellingham to Boulevard Park and Fairhaven Green.

Driving back later it was time for my first beer in Bellingham, WA, at Elizabeth Station 'beer market and cereal bar'.

There is parking at the side and there are outside tables with bench seating at the front (1400 West Holly Street).

Aslan - Azacca Fresh Hop

The big windows at the front provide plenty of daylight for the tables and bench seating inside.

The main bar has 16 taps and details of the beers are displayed on a blackboard.
The beer I enjoyed (in a 10.5 oz glass, $4) was Aslan Brewing Co Azacca Fresh Hop, brewed in Bellingham.
Elizabeth Station also has a back bar with 8 taps of ciders, meads and gluten-free beer.

Before leaving, I chose some chilled cans from a wide range to take back to Maureen's house nearby where I was happy to be staying as her guest.

It was nice to see some paintings by her grandfather, Roland Ryder-Smith, displayed in the house.

The can of Silver Moon Brewing (Bend, Oregon) Chapter 2 Casual Ale (4.7% ABV) was enjoyed on my first evening in Bellingham.

 

La Conner

On Thursday, 29 September, Maureen kindly drove me south to La Conner, situated near the mouth of the Skagit River. Across the river lies the home of the Swinomish Indian Tribal Community.

First Street, La Conner, has several shops and boutiques and is the location for La Conner Brewing Company.

The premises includes a pleasant brewpub with friendly service which first opened in 1995.  Here we ordered lunch and I was able to taste several beers brewed on the premises.

 A flight of five beers was delivered on a tray with metal handles at each end.

From the beers listed on the blackboard above the bar, I chose Raspberry Wheat (5.5% ABV), Octoberfest (6.3%), ESB (5.3%), Ankle Biter IPA (6.2%) and NW IPA (6.8%). The pale Raspberry Wheat had a full berry flavour and was an ideal appetiser.

Maureen and I both enjoyed the Clam Chowder as a starter. The recipe for the La Conner Brewing version of this coastal favourite has been published online in recipesecrets.net by Chef Tom.

On the drive back to Bellingham, Maureen took the scenic route - Chuckanut Drive. A stop in a layby gave an opportunity to look back towards Skagit County and the San Juan Islands.

Once back at base, it was soon time for another can purchased from Elizabeth Station. This beer was brewed by Bellevue Brewing Co (located a few miles inland from Seattle) to celebrate the Washington Trails Association's 50th anniversary.

Beers with grapefruit are among my favourites so a Tangerine pale ale was also appealing.
Cheers Maureen!